Ok, but who are we really dressing for?
How the male gaze shapes sizing norms in women's fashion
It’s no secret that fashion has long been a reflection of the social and cultural forces at play in society. While many of us believe our clothing choices are personal, the fashion industry often imposes standards that limit self-expression, particularly when it comes to sizing. One powerful force that shapes these norms, often unconsciously, is the male gaze.
The term "male gaze" was coined in 1975 by feminist film theorist Laura Mulvey. It refers to the way women are often viewed from a male perspective, positioning them as objects of male desire. While this concept was born in cinema, its reach extends to many aspects of society, including fashion. When it comes to clothing, the male gaze has shaped not only what is considered "attractive" but also the sizing norms that are designed to cater to male-centred ideals of beauty.
The male gaze and "ideal" sizing
The male gaze thrives on narrow definitions of beauty, often prioritizing slimness, youth, and conventionally feminine silhouettes. My personal take on this is that it’s extremely pedophilic but I’ll let you be the judge… In the fashion industry, this manifests in sizing norms that cater to a thin ideal, leaving little room for bodies that don’t conform to that narrow standard. As a result, many of us women struggle to find things that fit, reflect our personal style, or embrace our own body shape.
The dominance of the male gaze in fashion becomes evident when you look at the sample sizes—often a size 0 to 4—in runway shows, fashion magazines, and advertisements. These sample sizes are not just an aesthetic choice but a reflection of the industry's alignment with male-centred standards of beauty. We are not just encouraged, but pressured, to fit into these limited sizes to be deemed "fashionable" or "desirable."
This pressure creates a system where we are made to feel that our bodies are the problem, rather than the restrictive sizing options available to us. When we can't find our size in stores, the unspoken message is that our body is outside the bounds of desirability, leaving us frustrated and alienated.
Fashion's slimming obsession
The influence of the male gaze also shows up in the fashion industry's obsession with "flattering" clothing, a term that usually means making a woman appear thinner.
Words like "slimming" or "body-sculpting" are used to describe garments that prioritize hiding or minimizing certain body parts rather than celebrating our body as it is.
Fashion advertisements frequently reinforce this ideal by featuring models with flat stomachs, long legs, and narrow waists. Even the so called, ‘plus size’ brands- I’m looking at you City Chic do this and have been known to use ‘straight sized’ models and put them in ‘fat suits’ for the photo shoots. Again, reinforcing body types that adhere to what men are socialized to find attractive.
The result is that we are subtly nudged to seek out clothes that align with these standards, feeling compelled to choose garments that conform to external expectations rather than our own personal comfort or style.
The historical influence of the male gaze on women's fashion
Historically, women's fashion has often been designed with the male gaze in mind. Take, for example, the corsets of the Victorian era, which were designed to accentuate an hourglass figure, emphasizing the bust and hips to create a shape deemed desirable by men. While today’s garments may not be as physically constricting, the underlying principles of controlling and shaping our bodies to suit male ideals persist.
Fashion trends like bodycon dresses, plunging necklines, and high heels—though potentially empowering in the right context—often reinforce the idea that we should dress to appeal to male preferences. Even in more "casual" clothing, women’s fashion often favours form-fitting silhouettes over practical or comfortable alternatives, further reinforcing that our value lies in how we are viewed by others rather than how we feel in our clothes.
One striking example of how the male gaze continues to influence fashion is the recent trend toward beige and neutral-coloured clothing. While minimalist and neutral tones can be chic, the overwhelming popularity of these muted palettes raises questions about whether we are being encouraged to dull ourselves down, to blend in rather than stand out. In a society where women are often taught to take up less space—physically, verbally, and even sartorially—this trend mirrors a larger cultural push for women to tone down our presence. The emphasis on beige, a colour that quite literally fades into the background, subtly reinforces the idea that we should be palatable, inoffensive, and less visible. It stands in stark contrast to the bold colours and patterns that can celebrate individuality, strength, and personal expression.
Rejecting the male gaze: The path to body autonomy in fashion
Australia is dreadfully behind the rest of the world when it comes to making a shift in the fashion world when it comes to inclusivity at a mainstream level. However, there are lots of independent labels that are actively rejecting the male gaze. They do this by offering clothing that embraces body diversity and celebrates women’s choices over how they wish to present themselves.
Rather than designing clothes that cater to a singular idea of beauty, these brands are now creating garments in a wide range of sizes that highlight comfort, creativity, and individual expression. Size-inclusive fashion promotes clothing that allows women to feel empowered and confident, regardless of whether their bodies align with traditional ideals of what is deemed attractive or, to be blunt, fuckable.
Customization, too, plays a role in dismantling the male gaze. Allowing us women to choose details such as necklines, sleeve lengths, and dress styles that give us the power to decide how much or how little of our bodies we want to reveal. This prioritization of personal choice challenges the idea that fashion should cater to external approval and instead puts the focus back on the wearer’s own desires and needs.
A feminist approach to fashion sizing
Feminist fashion brands understand that clothing is not just about aesthetics—it’s about representation, choice, and liberation. By offering a variety of sizes and designs that accommodate all bodies, these brands disrupt the oppressive beauty standards that have dominated the fashion world for decades.
True size inclusivity isn’t just about making larger sizes available—it’s about challenging the norms that label certain bodies as less worthy of beautiful, well-made clothing. Feminist fashion encourages us to rethink who fashion is for and why all women deserve to feel seen, valued, and celebrated.
The future of sizing beyond the male gaze
As we continue to destroy the patriarchy, one can only hope that the male gaze will become a relic of the past. By continuing to push for size diversity, body autonomy, and feminist values in fashion, we can dismantle the harmful standards that have shaped women’s clothing choices for far too long.
In the end, fashion should be a tool for self-expression and empowerment, not a method of conforming to patriarchal expectations. It’s time for the industry to fully embrace women’s bodies as they are, in all their glorious diversity, and create clothing that reflects the autonomy and individuality of the wearer—not the desires of the onlooker.
Lisa x